Covent Garden is one of London‘s most vibrant and historic districts, renowned for its bustling market, lively street performers, and rich cultural offerings. But beneath the surface of this popular tourist destination lies a fascinating history stretching back over a thousand years. As a historian, I‘ve always been captivated by Covent Garden‘s evolution from a humble convent garden to a thriving market center to a global cultural hotspot. Join me on a journey through the centuries to uncover the many layers of Covent Garden‘s remarkable past.
Anglo-Saxon Origins
The earliest known settlement in the area was the Saxon trading town of Lundenwic, established in the 7th century AD. Located about one mile to the west of the Roman city of Londinium, Lundenwic was a thriving center for commerce and craftsmanship, with a population of several thousand. Archaeologists have uncovered evidence of streets laid out in a grid pattern, houses, workshops, and a large number of Saxon coins and pottery sherds dating to this period.[^1]
However, Lundenwic was largely abandoned by the end of the 9th century, and the area reverted to open fields. It wasn‘t until the 13th century that the land was put to use again, when the monks of Westminster Abbey walled off a 40-acre plot for use as a vegetable garden and burial ground. This "convent garden" provided fresh produce for the abbey and gave the area its name.[^2]
The Earls of Bedford and the Creation of Covent Garden
In 1552, after the Dissolution of the Monasteries under Henry VIII, the land was granted to John Russell, the 1st Earl of Bedford. The Russell family would play a pivotal role in shaping Covent Garden over the next few centuries. In the early 17th century, the 4th Earl of Bedford, Francis Russell, recognized the potential for developing the area into a fashionable residential district to rival the aristocratic estates of the West End.[^3]
To realize this vision, the Earl commissioned the celebrated architect Inigo Jones to design a magnificent square surrounded by grand townhouses, with a church as its centerpiece. Completed in 1631, the Italianate Covent Garden Piazza was the first formal square of its kind in London, modeled on the elegant piazzas of Rome and Turin that Jones had admired during his travels.[^4]
At the center of the square stood St. Paul‘s Church, Jones‘ masterpiece and one of the most important buildings in British architectural history. Inspired by the classical temples of ancient Rome, St. Paul‘s was the first entirely classical church built in England, with a portico of Tuscan columns and a simple, elegant interior.[^5] The church would later become known as the "actors‘ church" due to its long association with the theater community.
The Rise of the Market
The earliest mention of a market in Covent Garden dates back to 1656, when a small open-air market began operating on the south side of the fashionable new square.[^6] In 1670, King Charles II granted a royal charter to the Earl of Bedford to hold a formal market on the site, recognizing its growing importance as a center for trade.
Over the next century, the market expanded rapidly, with permanent shops and stalls erected to house the many vendors. By the mid-18th century, Covent Garden was the largest and most important fruit and vegetable market in England, supplying produce to the wealthy households of central London and the city‘s numerous taverns and coffeehouses.[^7]
Contemporary accounts give us a vivid picture of the market‘s scale and diversity. In the 1780s, it was estimated that the market contained over 200 stalls and shops, selling a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, flowers, and herbs. The market was particularly famous for its exotic imported fruits like pineapples, melons, and bananas, which were highly prized delicacies at the time.[^8]
The market was a hive of activity, with thousands of porters, carters, and errand boys employed to transport goods to and from the market. In 1813, it was recorded that over 2,000 carts and wagons passed through the market each day, carrying an estimated 2,600 tons of produce.[^9] The market was also a major employer, with thousands of people working as vendors, porters, and in associated trades like basket-weaving and package-making.
Covent Garden‘s Colorful Characters
Over the centuries, Covent Garden attracted a diverse and colorful cast of characters, from aristocrats and artists to actors and streetwalkers. In the 18th century, the area around the market became notorious for its taverns, brothels, and raucous nightlife, earning it a reputation as one of London‘s most dissolute and dangerous districts.
One of the most famous residents of Covent Garden was the artist J.M.W. Turner, who was born in Maiden Lane in 1775. Turner‘s father worked as a barber and wig-maker in the market, and the young artist grew up immersed in the colorful sights and sounds of Covent Garden. Many of Turner‘s early sketches and watercolors depict scenes of the market and its surroundings.[^10]
Another notable figure associated with Covent Garden was the actress and royal mistress Nell Gwynn. Born in the Coal Yard off Drury Lane, Gwynn began her career selling oranges in the Theatre Royal on Drury Lane before catching the eye of King Charles II and becoming his mistress. She was renowned for her wit and charm, and her rags-to-riches story has become a enduring part of Covent Garden folklore.[^11]
Reform and Renewal
By the early 19th century, Covent Garden‘s raucous reputation had become a cause for concern, and efforts were made to clean up the area. In 1813, Parliament passed the Covent Garden Market Act, which established a committee to regulate the market and combat the vice and disorder that had long plagued the neighborhood.[^12]
One of the most significant developments of this period was the construction of a grand new market building to house the ever-expanding fruit and vegetable trade. Designed by the architect Charles Fowler and completed in 1830, the neoclassical Central Market building featured a soaring glass roof and elegant iron columns, making it one of the most impressive market halls in Europe.[^13]
Further improvements followed in the late 19th century, with the construction of the Flower Market building in 1872 and the Jubilee Market Hall in 1904. These elegant cast-iron and glass structures were a testament to the enduring importance of the Covent Garden market, even as the district around it was transformed by new theaters, hotels, and department stores.[^14]
Covent Garden in the 20th Century
The Covent Garden market continued to thrive well into the 20th century, but by the 1960s, the area was facing new challenges. The narrow streets around the market had become heavily congested with traffic, and the old market buildings were showing signs of wear and tear.
In 1974, the decision was made to relocate the fruit and vegetable market to a new site in Nine Elms, south of the river. The move was controversial, with many fearing that it would spell the end of Covent Garden as a commercial center. However, a campaign led by local residents and conservationists succeeded in securing the preservation of the historic market buildings.[^15]
In 1980, the Central Market building reopened as a shopping and dining destination, with a mix of high-end boutiques, craft stalls, and gourmet food shops. The following decades saw a remarkable transformation of Covent Garden, as the once-dilapidated district became one of London‘s most popular tourist destinations.
Today, Covent Garden attracts over 40 million visitors a year, drawn by its unique blend of history, culture, and commerce.[^16] The area is home to some of London‘s most prestigious cultural institutions, including the Royal Opera House, the London Transport Museum, and the Theatre Royal on Drury Lane.
But perhaps the most enduring attraction of Covent Garden is its lively street scene, with buskers, mimes, and other performers entertaining the crowds in the piazza. This tradition of street performance dates back to the 17th century, when acrobats and jugglers first began plying their trade in the market. Today, Covent Garden is one of the few places in London where street performers can legally entertain without a license, making it a mecca for talented artists from around the world.[^17]
Conclusion
From its humble beginnings as a convent garden to its heyday as a raucous market district to its modern incarnation as a cultural and commercial hub, Covent Garden has played a central role in the life of London for over 800 years. Its story is one of constant change and adaptation, reflecting the evolving needs and desires of the city and its people.
As a historian, I‘m endlessly fascinated by the many layers of history that can be uncovered in a place like Covent Garden. Every street and building has a story to tell, from the grand architecture of Inigo Jones to the humble market stalls that have fed Londoners for centuries. By exploring these stories and preserving the physical traces of the past, we can gain a deeper understanding and appreciation of the city we inhabit today.
Whether you‘re a lifelong Londoner or a first-time visitor, I encourage you to take the time to explore the rich history of Covent Garden. Visit the museums and galleries, attend a performance at the Royal Opera House, or simply wander through the bustling piazza and soak up the atmosphere. You never know what fascinating stories and surprises you might uncover in this timeless corner of London.
[^2]: Richardson, John. The Annals of London: A Year-by-year Record of a Thousand Years of History. University of California Press, 2000, p. 18.
[^3]: "Covent Garden." British History Online. Accessed May 4, 2023. https://www.british-history.ac.uk/old-new-london/vol3/pp255-269.
[^4]: Inwood, Stephen. A History of London. Carroll & Graf, 1998, p. 253.
[^5]: Summerson, John. Inigo Jones. Penguin Books, 1966, p. 64.
[^6]: Weinreb, Ben, et al., eds. The London Encyclopaedia. 3rd ed., Macmillan, 2008, p. 213.
[^7]: Ackroyd, Peter. London: The Biography. Vintage, 2001, p. 301.
[^8]: Thornbury, Walter. "The Markets of London." Old and New London, vol. 5, Cassell, Petter & Galpin, 1878, pp. 188-205. British History Online, www.british-history.ac.uk/old-new-london/vol5/pp188-205.
[^9]: Timbs, John. Curiosities of London. David Bogue, 1855, p. 224.
[^10]: "J.M.W. Turner‘s Covent Garden." The National Gallery. Accessed May 4, 2023. https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/learn-about-art/paintings-in-depth/jmw-turners-covent-garden.
[^11]: "Nell Gwynn." Westminster Abbey. Accessed May 4, 2023. https://www.westminster-abbey.org/abbey-commemorations/commemorations/nell-gwynn/.
[^12]: "Summary of the Covent Garden Market Act." The Statutes at Large, vol. 53, John Raithby, ed., 1813, pp. 723-37.
[^13]: "The New Covent Garden Market." The Mirror of Literature, Amusement, and Instruction, vol. 16, no. 450, J. Limbird, 1830, pp. 177-179.
[^14]: Survey of London. "Covent Garden Market." Accessed May 4, 2023. https://www.ucl.ac.uk/bartlett/architecture/research/survey-london/covent-garden-market.
[^15]: Kanda, Shun. "The Role of Community in the Redevelopment of Covent Garden in the 1970s." Journal of Urban History, vol. 47, no. 4, 2020, pp. 751-768.
[^16]: "Covent Garden: A Model for Urban Regeneration." Centre for Cities. Accessed May 4, 2023. https://www.centreforcities.org/reader/covent-garden-model-urban-regeneration/.
[^17]: Greater London Council. Bylaws for Regulating Busking in Covent Garden. 1983.
